![]() Phyton 27 at 1.3 to 2 oz/10 gal water.Avoid excessive runoff to small plants, which may result in stunting and/or chlorosis. Using with oils or adjuvants may damage plant. Medallion WDG at 2 to 4 oz/100 gal water.Use with oils or adjuvants may cause plant damage. Decree 50 WDG at 0.75 to 1.5 lb/100 gal water.Chipco 26019 FLO at 1 to 2.5 quarts/100 gal water.Limit the use of any one group during crop production. Tank-mix and/or alternate products with different modes of action to prevent the buildup of resistant fungi. If using DROP or DIP for size control, do not let humidity rise above 90%.Ĭhemical control Best used with cultural controls. Heating in the morning before sunup can also help prevent dew formation as air temperature increases faster than the temperature of plant parts. Heating the greenhouse at night (especially for zero or negative DIF) or venting around sunset may be necessary. Maintain a steady, relatively dry environment by keeping greenhouse humidity below 90%, increasing spacing between plants for good air circulation, and taking care not to splash water on foliage during watering.Ideal growing conditions include a pH of about 5.8 and day temperatures of 71☏ to 79☏ and 62☏ to 67☏ at night.Maintain good air circulation in row and plant spacing.As tissues dry out, gray, powdery spore masses form. The initial symptom is a dark, water-soaked, slimy lesion, with concentric zonation and sometimes a yellowish margin. Symptoms All aboveground portions of the plant are attacked. Cool temperatures, high humidity, and free water on plant surfaces favor the disease, as do close plant spacing and irrigation practices that keep plants wet for a longer time. Spores are produced throughout the growing season under a wide range of temperatures and humidity. Don’t plant tulips in that spot for a few years, as the disease spores can remain in the soil and infect future plants.Greenhouse Plants, Ornamental - Gray MoldĬause The fungus Botrytis cinerea is an opportunistic pathogen that easily invades weak, damaged, or senescent tissue such as cotyledons, young stems, and young leaves. If any of these tulip disease problems manifest themselves on your tulip plants, remove and burn the infected plants as soon as you notice them. Be sure to spray all the good bulbs with fungicide to prevent future issues. This makes it easier for infected bulbs to spread to healthy ones. Unfortunately, water is a good carrier of disease. You can also detect rot by dropping the bulbs in water: rotten bulbs will float, while healthy bulbs will sink. Study each bulb carefully, looking for tell-tale dark or spongy spots and mold. Tulip disease problems are often treated by a thorough examination before planting. It causes either white or dark-colored streaks or ‘breaks’ on the petals. Breaking virus affects only red, pink, and purple tulip cultivars.These bulbs will produce shoots, but the flowers may be deformed and the leaves may die prematurely. Basal rot can is identified by large brown spots and white or pink mold on the bulbs.These feel lighter than usual and have a mealy texture when broken open. Stem and bulb nematode causes brown, spongy patches on the bulbs.Pythium root rot causes brown and gray soft spots on the bulb and stops shoots from emerging.Gray bulb rot and tulip crown rot cause the bulbs to turn gray and wither, often without producing any growth.The stems may become weak and collapse, while the bulbs become covered with lesions. It appears as discolored, singed-looking spots on the leaves and petals. This problem affects every part of the tulip. One common tulip fungal disease is the Botrytis blight, also known as tulip fire or mycelial neck rot.Most problems with tulips are fungal in nature. ![]() Keep reading for information on diseases of tulips. Though they’re fairly disease tolerant, there are a few common tulip diseases that can affect the soil or your new bulbs. Tulips are hardy and easy to grow, and provide a welcome early sign of spring.
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